China Brands, Marketing & Consumers
Mamianqun Gate: Dior Accused of Cultural Appropriation for Copying Design of Traditional Chinese Skirt
This is not just a matter of plagiarism, according to some, it’s about Dior taking a traditional Chinese design and claiming it’s theirs.
This article was first published by What’s on Weibo on
French luxury fashion house Dior has come under fire on Chinese social media today for the design of one of the skirts in its 2022 Fall collection, which resembles a Chinese traditional skirt known as mǎmiànqún (马面裙).
On the Chinese version of the Dior official website, the French fashion brand describes it as a “mid-length skirt” that is an “all-new elegant and stylish piece based on the iconic Dior silhouette.”
But many Chinese netizens do not agree, and say that the pleated skirt in question is actually a mǎmiànqún (马面裙): a wrapped, apron-like traditional Chinese skirt that was worn in China as early as the Song (960–1279) and Liao dynasties (916–1125) and became popular during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).
The skirt by Dior.
The literal translation of the word mǎmiànqún is ‘horse face skirt.’ The skirt is composed of two overlapping fabrics wrapped around the lower body: the two sides of the skirt are pleated, and there is a smooth section in the middle. The skirt is also known as mǎmiànzhěqún (马面褶裙), ‘horse face pleated skirt.’
“It’s just exactly the same,” some commenters wrote. “They’re copying China and then selling it to Chinese consumers, I don’t know what to say.” On the Chinese official Dior site, the skirt is priced at 29,000 yuan (US$4292).
The Dior skirt on the left, Chinese mamian skirt on the right, image from Weibo.
“They’re vilifying China and at the same time, they’re stealing from Chinese culture. They’re shameless,” one Weibo user (@改改hj) wrote.
“Can’t the propaganda department set up an organization to defend our legal rights?” other commenters write.
The influential history blogging account @Qinyimo (@秦祎墨, over 7 million fans) wrote: “I’m not even kidding. I hope that a lawyer specialized in copyright law and an expert in cultural preservation will jointly evaluate this matter, and pay attention to how nasty this is.”
Some people are especially offended that Dior suggests the skirt’s design is inspired by their own original Christian Dior skirt, without any reference to China at all. Others foresee greater problems for Chinese traditional dress if Dior is actually claiming this design is theirs.
Side by side comparison of Dior’s skirt and mamianqun.
The blogging account Qinyimo raised attention to this potential problem.
“This is not simply a matter of plagiarism,” they write: “As traditional Chinese apparel, the mamianqun has historical origins in the Chinese traditional dress system which has continued to the present-day and has never been discontinued. If Dior has patented the version of their mamianqun design, this would mean that when the Chinese fashion industry uses this traditional technique, they could end up in an international legal dispute for doing so.”
“What is ours is ours, I am confident about that. But if their patent is approved, it would mean our way out is blocked (..) This is not a joke, this requires serious attention.”
Mamianqun examples shared on Weibo.
Chinese traditional dress is increasingly popular among Chinese young people, especially due to the rise of the Hanfu Movement, which can be described as a social movement that supports the wearing of Han Chinese ethnic clothing (read more here).
“Dior, this is blatant cultural appropriation [文化挪用],” one Weibo user writes, receiving nearly 12,000 likes on their comment.
At the same time, not everyone agrees that Dior is guilty of plagiarism: “It’s not plagiarism, don’t be mistaken, the mamian skirt is not protected by copyright law so you can’t really plagiarize it. It is, however, 100% cultural appropriation.”
“They are misappropriating our traditional apparel,” other commenters write.
It is not the first time for a Western luxury fashion brand to ignite controversy in China. In 2018, Italian fashion house D&G faced consumer outrage and backlash on Chinese social media for a marketing campaign featuring a Chinese-looking model clumsily using chopsticks to eat Italian dishes (read more here). Various other brands, including Versace and Givenchy, also came under fire in 2019 for for listing Hong Kong, Macau, and Taiwan as a separate countries or regions – not part of China – on their official websites or brand T-shirts.
However, it is rare for online controversies to come out in China accusing foreign brands of ‘cultural appropriation.’ In the past, China has been accused of cultural appropriation, especially when it comes to Korean traditions. Earlier this year, a performer at the opening ceremony of the Beijing Olympics drew condemnation in South Korea for wearing a traditional Korean dress known as hanbok.
Although ‘cultural appropriation’ is at the center of today’s discussions, it is arguably a bit more nuanced than previous mainstream discussions regarding the issue of cultural appropriation outside of China. More than feeling offended about Dior using Chinese mamianqun design, it is about Dior claiming the design as being based on their own original classic. As one netizen writes: “Let’s not be misunderstood, it’s useless to talk about ‘cultural appropriation’ [文化挪用], we need to let people know that in the future if they’ll wear a mamianqun, they could be told by foreigners that ‘Chinese people just love to wear big fashion brands rip offs .’ When our own international clothing brands use our own mamian skirt elements, it is likely they’ll be sued by Dior for doing so.”
At time of writing, the official Dior Weibo account has not responded to the controversy. They have, however, turned off the comment sections of their latest posts.
By Manya Koetse
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China Books & Literature
Why Chinese Publishers Are Boycotting the 618 Shopping Festival
Bookworms love to get a good deal on books, but when the deals are too good, it can actually harm the publishing industry.
When June begins, promotional campaigns for China’s 618 Online Shopping Festival suddenly appear everywhere—it’s hard to ignore.
The 618 Festival is a product of China’s booming e-commerce culture. Taking place annually on June 18th, it is China’s largest mid-year shopping carnival. While Alibaba’s “Singles’ Day” shopping festival has been taking place on November 11th since 2009, the 618 Festival was launched by another Chinese e-commerce giant, JD.com (京东), to celebrate the company’s anniversary, boost its sales, and increase its brand value.
By now, other e-commerce platforms such as Taobao and Pinduoduo have joined the 618 Festival, and it has turned into another major nationwide shopping spree event.
For many book lovers in China, 618 has become the perfect opportunity to stock up on books. In previous years, e-commerce platforms like JD.com and Dangdang (当当) would roll out tempting offers during the festival, such as “300 RMB ($41) off for every 500 RMB ($69) spent” or “50 RMB ($7) off for every 100 RMB ($13.8) spent.”
Starting in May, about a month before 618, the largest bookworm community group on the Douban platform, nicknamed “Buying Like Landsliding, Reading Like Silk Spinning” (买书如山倒，看书如抽丝), would start buzzing with activity, discussing book sales, comparing shopping lists, or sharing views about different issues.
Social media users share lists of which books to buy during the 618 shopping festivities.
This year, however, the mood within the group was different. Many members posted that before the 618 season began, books from various publishers were suddenly taken down from e-commerce platforms, disappearing from their online shopping carts. This unusual occurrence sparked discussions among book lovers, with speculations arising about a potential conflict between Chinese publishers and e-commerce platforms.
A joint statement posted in May provided clarity. According to Chinese media outlet The Paper (@澎湃新闻), eight publishers in Beijing and the Shanghai Publishing and Distribution Association, which represent 46 publishing units in Shanghai, issued a statement indicating they refuse to participate in this year’s 618 promotional campaign as proposed by JD.com.
The collective industry boycott has a clear motivation: during JD’s 618 promotional campaign, which offers all books at steep discounts (e.g., 60-70% off) for eight days, publishers lose money on each book sold. Meanwhile, JD.com continues to profit by forcing publishers to sell books at significantly reduced prices (e.g., 80% off). For many publishers, it is simply not sustainable to sell books at 20% of the original price.
One person who has openly spoken out against JD.com’s practices is Shen Haobo (沈浩波), founder and CEO of Chinese book publisher Motie Group (磨铁集团). Shen shared a post on WeChat Moments on May 31st, stating that Motie has completely stopped shipping to JD.com as it opposes the company’s low-price promotions. Shen said it felt like JD.com is “repeatedly rubbing our faces into the ground.”
Nevertheless, many netizens expressed confusion over the situation. Under the hashtag topic “Multiple Publishers Are Boycotting the 618 Book Promotions” (#多家出版社抵制618图书大促#), people complained about the relatively high cost of physical books.
With a single legitimate copy often costing 50-60 RMB ($7-$8.3), and children’s books often costing much more, many Chinese readers can only afford to buy books during big sales. They question the justification for these rising prices, as books used to be much more affordable.
Book blogger TaoLangGe (@陶朗歌) argues that for ordinary readers in China, the removal of discounted books is not good news. As consumers, most people are not concerned with the “life and death of the publishing industry” and naturally prefer cheaper books.
However, industry insiders argue that a “price war” on books may not truly benefit buyers in the end, as it is actually driving up the prices as a forced response to the frequent discount promotions by e-commerce platforms.
China News (@中国新闻网) interviewed publisher San Shi (三石), who noted that people’s expectations of book prices can be easily influenced by promotional activities, leading to a subconscious belief that purchasing books at such low prices is normal. Publishers, therefore, feel compelled to reduce costs and adopt price competition to attract buyers. However, the space for cost reduction in paper and printing is limited.
Eventually, this pressure could affect the quality and layout of books, including their binding, design, and editing. In the long run, if a vicious cycle develops, it would be detrimental to the production and publication of high-quality books, ultimately disappointing book lovers who will struggle to find the books they want, in the format they prefer.
This debate temporarily resolved with JD.com’s compromise. According to The Paper, JD.com has started to abandon its previous strategy of offering extreme discounts across all book categories. Publishers now have a certain degree of autonomy, able to decide the types of books and discount rates for platform promotions.
While most previously delisted books have returned for sale, JD.com’s silence on their official social media channels leaves people worried about the future of China’s publishing industry in an era dominated by e-commerce platforms, especially at a time when online shops and livestreamers keep competing over who has the best book deals, hyping up promotional campaigns like ‘9.9 RMB ($1.4) per book with free shipping’ to ‘1 RMB ($0.15) books.’
This year’s developments surrounding the publishing industry and 618 has led to some discussions that have created more awareness among Chinese consumers about the true price of books. “I was planning to bulk buy books this year,” one commenter wrote: “But then I looked at my bookshelf and saw that some of last year’s books haven’t even been unwrapped yet.”
Another commenter wrote: “Although I’m just an ordinary reader, I still feel very sad about this situation. It’s reasonable to say that lower prices are good for readers, but what I see is an unfavorable outlook for publishers and the book market. If this continues, no one will want to work in this industry, and for readers who do not like e-books and only prefer physical books, this is definitely not a good thing at all!”
By Ruixin Zhang, edited with further input by Manya Koetse
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China Brands, Marketing & Consumers
Chinese Sun Protection Fashion: Move over Facekini, Here’s the Peek-a-Boo Polo
From facekini to no-face hoodie: China’s anti-tan fashion continues to evolve.
It has been ten years since the Chinese “facekini”—a head garment worn by Chinese ‘aunties’ at the beach or swimming pool to prevent sunburn—went international.
Although the facekini’s debut in French fashion magazines did not lead to an international craze, it did turn the term “facekini” (脸基尼), coined in 2012, into an internationally recognized word.
The facekini went viral in 2014.
In recent years, China has seen a rise in anti-tan, sun-protection garments. More than just preventing sunburn, these garments aim to prevent any tanning at all, helping Chinese women—and some men—maintain as pale a complexion as possible, as fair skin is deemed aesthetically ideal.
As temperatures are soaring across China, online fashion stores on Taobao and other platforms are offering all kinds of fashion solutions to prevent the skin, mainly the face, from being exposed to the sun.
One of these solutions is the reversed no-face sun protection hoodie, or the ‘peek-a-boo polo,’ a dress shirt with a reverse hoodie featuring eye holes and a zipper for the mouth area.
This sun-protective garment is available in various sizes and models, with some inspired by or made by the Japanese NOTHOMME brand. These garments can be worn in two ways—hoodie front or hoodie back. Prices range from 100 to 280 yuan ($13-$38) per shirt/jacket.
The no-face hoodie sun protection shirt is sold in various colors and variations on Chinese e-commerce sites.
Some shops on Taobao joke about the extreme sun-protective fashion, writing: “During the day, you don’t know which one is your wife. At night they’ll return to normal and you’ll see it’s your wife.”
On Xiaohongshu, fashion commenters note how Chinese sun protective clothing has become more extreme over the past few years, with “sunburn protection warriors” (防晒战士) thinking of all kinds of solutions to avoid a tan.
Although there are many jokes surrounding China’s “sun protection warriors,” some people believe they are taking it too far, even comparing them to Muslim women dressed in burqas.
Image shared on Weibo by @TA们叫我董小姐, comparing pretty girls before (left) and nowadays (right), also labeled “sunscreen terrorists.”
Some Xiaohongshu influencers argue that instead of wrapping themselves up like mummies, people should pay more attention to the UV index, suggesting that applying sunscreen and using a parasol or hat usually offers enough protection.
By Manya Koetse, with contributions by Miranda Barnes
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Jane Churchland
July 16, 2022 at 2:12 am
I may be missing something, but the photos and description look nearly exactly the same as the winter school uniform kilt I (and thousands upon thousands of others of Australian school girls) wore decades ago? Different fabric, but same design? A pleated wrap with a smooth front panel?
I agree that Dior claiming it’s something special is weird, but saying it’s culturally appropriated from a Chinese garment doesn’t add up to me.
Beefnoodles
July 16, 2022 at 2:46 am
It is not about the “Pleats”, which seems a familiar element of style in school uniform. However, the Chinese traditional skirt (mamianqun) have two layers of cloth overlapping each other, which is different from the skirt we wear nowadays. Why is it called a mamianqun (horse face skirt), it is because the shape of the skirt resembles the one side of the rampart in ancient city of China, which is called “the side of a horse face”. Why is it designed this way? Because, in ancient times, we don’t have zippers, elastic cords or Velcro to avoid exposure of private parts; Therefore, Chinese people have to wear a lot, so the multi-layered design makes the skirt breathable, and the pleats it utilized makes the skirt more comfortable when the skirt is swinging back and forth. China is, admittedly, a civilization with a discontinued history. Its culture has to be acknowledged. What Dior has done is offensive and disrespectful.
K
July 16, 2022 at 2:50 am
It’s the cultural appropriation; the article explained the structure of the apron-like traditional Chinese skirt, and this new Dior dress uses the almost same… They are not only similar in outlook
Beefnoodles
July 16, 2022 at 2:50 am
Chine is a civilization with continued history.
noodles
July 16, 2022 at 3:07 am
It is not about the “Pleats”, Which seems a familiar element of style in school uniform.
However, the Chinese traditional skirt (mamiangun) have two layers of cloth
overlapping each other, which is different from the skirt we wear nowadays. Why is it
called a mamiangun (horse face skirt), it is because the shape of the skirt resembles
the one side of the rampart in ancient city of China, which is called “the side of a horse
face”. Why is it designed this way? Because, in ancient times, we don’t have zippers,
elastic cords or Velcro to avoid exposure of private parts; Therefore, Chinese people
have to wear a lot, so the multi-layered design makes the skirt breathable, and the
pleats it utilized makes the skirt more comfortable when the skirt is swinging back and
forth. China is, admittedly, a civilization with a long, continued history. Its culture has to
be acknowledged. What Dior has done is offensive and disrespectful.
Even Princess Diana has wore a red mamianqun in 1981.
Yiran Sun
July 16, 2022 at 4:14 am
You are missing something. The the Dior skirt is open on both sides, and when untied it’s one piece of fabric, the specific construction is exactly, uniquely like mamianqun, even down to the specific placement of the pleats.
All tradition Chinese skirts are actually one piece of fabric tied together with ribbons on both sides, because you are expected to wear pants underneath it. Mamianqun was developed to open on both sides so women can more easily ride horses. Are horses the primary form of transportation for Australian school girls these days?
Kim_YS
July 16, 2022 at 10:09 am
This isn’t Chinese origin, this is Korean origin according to Chinese’s own written records. There’s Goguryeo mural painting showing this outskirt.
Keesty
July 18, 2022 at 11:30 pm
Mamian is from China. It’s the main dress for our female Han people in the Song and Ming dynasties (nearly 700 years of history). Why do Korean people always try to steal other people’s culture? If you know your history. You will find out the Korean peninsula is independent only after ， in 1895. You used to belong to the Chinese dynasty. I don’t think any Chinese people will want to wear any clothes from your region rather than our clothes. I can show respect to Korean, but only as you show respect to the real history.
Zeus
July 19, 2022 at 3:15 am
Check this video: “Dior and Its Cultural Appropriation of Chinese Ma Mian Skirt [CC]” (https://youtu.be/Chyma67-PMY), which explained clearly the unique design of the Ma Mian Qun (Horse face skirt). As mentioned above, this is not about “pleats”. The design of Ma Mian Qun made it easier for ancient Chinese women to ride horses, unlike that of the Western women, who did side saddle riding. What Dior does is blatant cultural appropriation.
Jane Churchland
July 19, 2022 at 9:07 am
OK, I’ve now seen a closer look video on the actual skirt, and you are all right and I was so extremely wrong. My apologies.
Guy
July 20, 2022 at 4:02 pm
Chinese copy everything. And they have the nerve to complain?
Walao
July 21, 2022 at 2:47 pm
Without fail, a korean will always show up to claim some heritage that’s obviously not theirs.
Whatdli
July 24, 2022 at 12:40 pm
Dont understand why is okeay to people copy original work from Chinese even there is people who copy other people. But if you didnt know all world have plagiarize problem, not only China. But China get promote for most about this. Not saying its fine, but this cultural appropriation is just wrong thing as well as those people from China who make fake things. There are original designers and traditional culture, which we should support. They should all be respected, otherwise everyone is no different from someone who can only plagiarized.
Whatif
July 24, 2022 at 12:44 pm
If people thing its fine because there are Chinese who copy and say they cant complain when they get this. Would you prefer that in the future copying be increased in China and maybe they also think that it is the only way to act when the original work or culture cannot be protected or complain that it has been copied.
Its fin
July 24, 2022 at 12:47 pm
Can Korean people just stop whe know ypu can not read Chinese character, ypu can even not make difference between horsetail and horseface. And no there is not a tomb info about it, because you people broke mural painting when try to steal it.
Sisi
July 30, 2022 at 3:40 am
China’s history definitely been interrupted when they were forced to wear that long braid.
Sisi
July 30, 2022 at 3:44 am
Dior only mentioned their classic silhouette, took no credit for the pleats and cut. Can people have an idea of silhouette before accusing others?