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Mamianqun Gate: Dior Accused of Cultural Appropriation for Copying Design of Traditional Chinese Skirt

This is not just a matter of plagiarism, according to some, it’s about Dior taking a traditional Chinese design and claiming it’s theirs.

Manya Koetse

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This article was first published by What’s on Weibo on

French luxury fashion house Dior has come under fire on Chinese social media today for the design of one of the skirts in its 2022 Fall collection, which resembles a Chinese traditional skirt known as mǎmiànqún (马面裙).

On the Chinese version of the Dior official website, the French fashion brand describes it as a “mid-length skirt” that is…

Manya Koetse is a sinologist, writer, and public speaker specializing in China’s social trends, digital culture, and online media ecosystems. She founded What’s on Weibo in 2013 and now runs the Eye on Digital China newsletter. Learn more at manyakoetse.com or follow her on X, Instagram, or LinkedIn.

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17 Comments

17 Comments

  1. Jane Churchland

    July 16, 2022 at 2:12 am

    I may be missing something, but the photos and description look nearly exactly the same as the winter school uniform kilt I (and thousands upon thousands of others of Australian school girls) wore decades ago? Different fabric, but same design? A pleated wrap with a smooth front panel?

    I agree that Dior claiming it’s something special is weird, but saying it’s culturally appropriated from a Chinese garment doesn’t add up to me.

  2. Beefnoodles

    July 16, 2022 at 2:46 am

    It is not about the “Pleats”, which seems a familiar element of style in school uniform. However, the Chinese traditional skirt (mamianqun) have two layers of cloth overlapping each other, which is different from the skirt we wear nowadays. Why is it called a mamianqun (horse face skirt), it is because the shape of the skirt resembles the one side of the rampart in ancient city of China, which is called “the side of a horse face”. Why is it designed this way? Because, in ancient times, we don’t have zippers, elastic cords or Velcro to avoid exposure of private parts; Therefore, Chinese people have to wear a lot, so the multi-layered design makes the skirt breathable, and the pleats it utilized makes the skirt more comfortable when the skirt is swinging back and forth. China is, admittedly, a civilization with a discontinued history. Its culture has to be acknowledged. What Dior has done is offensive and disrespectful.

  3. K

    July 16, 2022 at 2:50 am

    It’s the cultural appropriation; the article explained the structure of the apron-like traditional Chinese skirt, and this new Dior dress uses the almost same… They are not only similar in outlook

  4. Beefnoodles

    July 16, 2022 at 2:50 am

    Chine is a civilization with continued history.

  5. noodles

    July 16, 2022 at 3:07 am

    It is not about the “Pleats”, Which seems a familiar element of style in school uniform.
    However, the Chinese traditional skirt (mamiangun) have two layers of cloth
    overlapping each other, which is different from the skirt we wear nowadays. Why is it
    called a mamiangun (horse face skirt), it is because the shape of the skirt resembles
    the one side of the rampart in ancient city of China, which is called “the side of a horse
    face”. Why is it designed this way? Because, in ancient times, we don’t have zippers,
    elastic cords or Velcro to avoid exposure of private parts; Therefore, Chinese people
    have to wear a lot, so the multi-layered design makes the skirt breathable, and the
    pleats it utilized makes the skirt more comfortable when the skirt is swinging back and
    forth. China is, admittedly, a civilization with a long, continued history. Its culture has to
    be acknowledged. What Dior has done is offensive and disrespectful.
    Even Princess Diana has wore a red mamianqun in 1981.

  6. Yiran Sun

    July 16, 2022 at 4:14 am

    You are missing something. The the Dior skirt is open on both sides, and when untied it’s one piece of fabric, the specific construction is exactly, uniquely like mamianqun, even down to the specific placement of the pleats.

    All tradition Chinese skirts are actually one piece of fabric tied together with ribbons on both sides, because you are expected to wear pants underneath it. Mamianqun was developed to open on both sides so women can more easily ride horses. Are horses the primary form of transportation for Australian school girls these days?

  7. Kim_YS

    July 16, 2022 at 10:09 am

    This isn’t Chinese origin, this is Korean origin according to Chinese’s own written records. There’s Goguryeo mural painting showing this outskirt.

  8. Keesty

    July 18, 2022 at 11:30 pm

    Mamian is from China. It’s the main dress for our female Han people in the Song and Ming dynasties (nearly 700 years of history). Why do Korean people always try to steal other people’s culture? If you know your history. You will find out the Korean peninsula is independent only after , in 1895. You used to belong to the Chinese dynasty. I don’t think any Chinese people will want to wear any clothes from your region rather than our clothes. I can show respect to Korean, but only as you show respect to the real history.

  9. Zeus

    July 19, 2022 at 3:15 am

    Check this video: “Dior and Its Cultural Appropriation of Chinese Ma Mian Skirt [CC]” (https://youtu.be/Chyma67-PMY), which explained clearly the unique design of the Ma Mian Qun (Horse face skirt). As mentioned above, this is not about “pleats”. The design of Ma Mian Qun made it easier for ancient Chinese women to ride horses, unlike that of the Western women, who did side saddle riding. What Dior does is blatant cultural appropriation.

  10. Jane Churchland

    July 19, 2022 at 9:07 am

    OK, I’ve now seen a closer look video on the actual skirt, and you are all right and I was so extremely wrong. My apologies.

  11. Guy

    July 20, 2022 at 4:02 pm

    Chinese copy everything. And they have the nerve to complain?

  12. Walao

    July 21, 2022 at 2:47 pm

    Without fail, a korean will always show up to claim some heritage that’s obviously not theirs.

  13. Whatdli

    July 24, 2022 at 12:40 pm

    Dont understand why is okeay to people copy original work from Chinese even there is people who copy other people. But if you didnt know all world have plagiarize problem, not only China. But China get promote for most about this. Not saying its fine, but this cultural appropriation is just wrong thing as well as those people from China who make fake things. There are original designers and traditional culture, which we should support. They should all be respected, otherwise everyone is no different from someone who can only plagiarized.

  14. Whatif

    July 24, 2022 at 12:44 pm

    If people thing its fine because there are Chinese who copy and say they cant complain when they get this. Would you prefer that in the future copying be increased in China and maybe they also think that it is the only way to act when the original work or culture cannot be protected or complain that it has been copied.

  15. Its fin

    July 24, 2022 at 12:47 pm

    Can Korean people just stop whe know ypu can not read Chinese character, ypu can even not make difference between horsetail and horseface. And no there is not a tomb info about it, because you people broke mural painting when try to steal it.

  16. Sisi

    July 30, 2022 at 3:40 am

    China’s history definitely been interrupted when they were forced to wear that long braid.

  17. Sisi

    July 30, 2022 at 3:44 am

    Dior only mentioned their classic silhouette, took no credit for the pleats and cut. Can people have an idea of silhouette before accusing others?

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