SubscribeLog in
Connect with us

China Fashion & Beauty

Who is China’s Next Topmodel?

Following another China’s Next Top Model finale, China fashion blogger Elsbeth van Paridon wonders how China’s runway darlings are doing in the world of fashion modeling, and who ‘China’s Next Top Model’ actually is.

Published

on

Following another China’s Next Top Model finale, China fashion blogger Elsbeth van Paridon wonders how China’s runway darlings are doing in the world of fashion modeling, and who ‘China’s Next Top Model’ actually is.

It’s been a fixture on international TV screens for some 10 years now: “-Fill in whatever country you can think of”- Next Top Model, an original idea sprouting from American supermodel-turned-mogul fashion Wunderkind Tyra Banks’ brain.

China, together with the rest of Asia, couldn’t be left behind, and started its very own fashion-fun-and-long-limbs-filled edition back in 2008. The latest edition of China’s Next Topmodel (Cycle 5, aired by Chongqing TV) had its season finale on August 8. Time to reflect on how China’s runway darlings are faring in the world of fleeting fashion modeling nowadays – who is the actual next topmodel of China?

 

“The Age of the China Fashion Model had dawned.”

 

Answer: there’s not just one. China has a slowly but steadily increasing picture-perfect pack of topmodels taking on the international fashion weeks. With or without the help of the ‘Next Topmodel’ television series, China has proved to be fruitful ground for supermodels (超模, which literally translates as “extreme model” in Chinese). Tall-tree-esque models such as Du Juan (haute couture muse) and Liu Wen (Victoria’s Secret, anyone?) have earned their stripes on the highest measurement levels of the global modeling industry.

hm-new-season-aw14-liu-wenChinese topmodel Liu Wen for H&M.

From Shanghai to Milan, and from H&M to Hermes, cities and brands bow to the newcomers flying in from the East. Just take another look at Vogue China’s 100th edition released in 2013: it devoted an entire chapter to the appearance of Chinese models in the on-trend Fashion Bible.

Vogue-China-December-2013-509x613Vogue China 100th Edition.

In the eyes of their fans, the popularity of China’s models is similar to that of old Hollywood studio era movie stars – the Age of the China Fashion Model had dawned.

Fast forward to 2015: Liu Wen, with an enormous Chinese fanbase (she has over 12 million Weibo followers) is the first Chinese (Asian, in fact!) model to bag the world’s most coveted lingerie gig and sign a beauty deal with Estee Lauder. Model Luo Zilin became (in)famous after courting controversy by getting into a lover’s-triangle tiff with Naomi Campbell after appearing on modeling TV show “The Face”. Liu Li Jun has become a Harper’s Bazaar favorite, and Fei Fei Sun is the first Asian model to feature on the Vogue Italia cover.

Fei-Fei-Sun-by-Steven-Meisel-for-Vogue-Italia-January-2013_11Fei Fei Sun by Steven Meisel for Italian Vogue.

It is obvious that the Chinese have managed to put a very visible red stamp on the world of photo-shoots and seasonal collections. Emma Pei, Shu Pei (Qin), Ming Xi, and the list goes on for quite a bit, have been hailed for adding a touch of “exotics” (I don’t particularly like this word, but it gets the job done) to a hemisphere of Eastern European/Caucasian women.

The Chinese (next) topmodels are on a mission to rake in the covers and campaigns. Whereas fashion may be fleeting, the admiration for the China Fashion Model sure is not.

Oh, and before I forget, the season finale of the China’s Next Topmodel television series was won by 1.77m-tall Li Si Jia. Go get ‘em girl.

11
The winner of Cycle 5 of China’s Next Topmodel, Li si Jia.

– by Elsbeth van Paridon

Images:
http://mylusciouslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Fei-Fei-Sun-by-Steven-Meisel-for-Vogue-Italia-January-2013_11.jpg
https://intothegloss.com/2013/12/vogue-china-100th-issue/
http://www.nuyou.com.my/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/Vogue-China-December-2013-100-Special_Shu-Qi-by-Mario-Testino_02.jpg

©2015 Whatsonweibo. All rights reserved. Do not reproduce our content without permission – you can contact us at info@whatsonweibo.com.

Elsbeth van Paridon is a sinologist and fashion writer. Since 2010, she has been living in Beijing, where she has become an expert on all the ins and outs of the world of China fashion. She has her own blog on China fashion: Chasing the Fashion Dragon.

Continue Reading
1 Comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

China Fashion & Beauty

“No Kimonos Allowed” – Ongoing Debate on Japanese Attire in China

A Chinese girl who was refused entry to a local comic convention for wearing a ‘kimono’ raised questions about whether restrictions on Japanese attire were motivated by historical sensitivities or gender bias.

Manya Koetse

Published

on

An incident from earlier in July continues to spark discussions on Chinese social media about wearing Japanese-style clothing and where to draw the line between freedom of dress and banning attire deemed too sensitive.

The incident occurred in Jinan on July 20, when a girl wearing a Japanese yukata was refused entry to a local comic convention due to her attire. A yukata is similar to a kimono but more casual and lightweight, usually worn during the summer.

A video of the incident went viral, showing the girl dressed as Nezuko Kamado, a main character in the manga series Demon Slayer. The person filming, presumably the security guard at the venue, tells the girl she cannot enter dressed in a kimono and sends her away. “We don’t allow kimonos,” he says. “This is China.”

Screenshots of the video by RFA.

Although many applaud the decision to refuse Japanese traditional clothing at the convention, some commenters express frustration over such regulations at an anime convention, given that much of anime culture originates from Japan.

“With such a rule, why even bother holding an anime convention at all? Everything comes from Japan,” one top comment said.

“This is not even normal Japanese traditional clothing; it’s cosplay,” another person wrote.

Some people, however, point out that there are more cosplay events in China where dressing in Japanese-style attire goes against the rules, and suggest that this girl should have known better.

 
Sensitive Fashion
 

This is not the first time discussions over kimono-wearing women have flared up in China. One notable incident happened in the summer of 2022, when a Chinese female cosplayer dressed in a Japanese summer kimono while taking pictures in Suzhou’s ‘Little Tokyo’ area was taken away by local police for ‘provoking trouble’ (read more).

Later, in September 2023, a draft amendment to China’s Public Security Administration Punishments Law (治安管理处罚法) to ban clothing that “hurts national feelings” also triggered social media debates about freedom of dress and cultural sensitivities.

The issue that concerned people the most was the vague definition included in the amendment, namely, “harming or hurting the spirit and feelings of the Chinese nation” (“伤害中华民族精神、感情”). Although Chinese state media indicated that the clause targets provocative actions to attract public attention, such as wearing Japanese military uniforms at sensitive sites, legal experts and social media users expressed apprehensions regarding its ambiguity, wondering who determines what qualifies as “harmful” in the end.

Among Chinese young people, cosplay (‘costume play’) has become increasingly popular in recent years. Cosplay allows people to be something they are not—a superhero, a villain, a sex bomb—sometimes Chinese, American, or Japanese. Would a change to the law prevent them from role-playing?

 
A Gender Issue
 

Some people suggest that this is not only about wearing Japanese-style clothing but also about sexist ideas in China regarding what Chinese women can or cannot wear.

One Weibo user (@我见青山多可笑) thought it was especially unfair for the girl in Jinan to be denied entry in light of another recent incident where a man wearing a t-shirt with a Rising Sun flag design visited the Unit 731 Exhibition Hall, a museum about the biological and chemical warfare atrocities committed by the Japanese in Harbin during the Second Sino-Japanese War.

That incident happened on July 14. Although other visitors at the museum took offense and photographed the man wearing the t-shirt, nobody intervened. On Weibo, wearing such a t-shirt to the war museum was seen as an act of provocation (#男子在731部队罪证陈列馆穿太阳旗图案T恤#).

A man wearing a Japanese rising sun design while visiting a museum about war atrocities committed by Japanese in Harbin.

The Weibo user wrote: “This just shows that people’s sensitivity to Japanese clothing/Japanese culture is entirely divided by gender. If it’s a woman, it’s not allowed. If it’s a guy? Absolutely fine!”

Other commenters (@超级大酵母母母) agreed, saying: “The girl wasn’t wearing a traditional kimono; it was a cosplay outfit of a character. There were many male characters in Japanese-style clothing at the convention, but security did not stop them and only stopped the girl.”

In the end, regardless of political and gender implications, Chinese cosplay fans are just worried about the future of their beloved hobby: “If kimonos are not allowed at anime conventions, then there are so many characters that can’t be cosplayed. It’s just ridiculous!”

By Manya Koetse

Spotted a mistake or want to add something? Please let us know in comments below or email us. First-time commenters, please be patient – we will have to manually approve your comment before it appears.

©2024 Whatsonweibo. All rights reserved. Do not reproduce our content without permission – you can contact us at info@whatsonweibo.com.

Continue Reading

China Brands, Marketing & Consumers

Chinese Sun Protection Fashion: Move over Facekini, Here’s the Peek-a-Boo Polo

From facekini to no-face hoodie: China’s anti-tan fashion continues to evolve.

Manya Koetse

Published

on

It has been ten years since the Chinese “facekini”—a head garment worn by Chinese ‘aunties’ at the beach or swimming pool to prevent sunburn—went international.

Although the facekini’s debut in French fashion magazines did not lead to an international craze, it did turn the term “facekini” (脸基尼), coined in 2012, into an internationally recognized word.

The facekini went viral in 2014.

In recent years, China has seen a rise in anti-tan, sun-protection garments. More than just preventing sunburn, these garments aim to prevent any tanning at all, helping Chinese women—and some men—maintain as pale a complexion as possible, as fair skin is deemed aesthetically ideal.

As temperatures are soaring across China, online fashion stores on Taobao and other platforms are offering all kinds of fashion solutions to prevent the skin, mainly the face, from being exposed to the sun.

One of these solutions is the reversed no-face sun protection hoodie, or the ‘peek-a-boo polo,’ a dress shirt with a reverse hoodie featuring eye holes and a zipper for the mouth area.

This sun-protective garment is available in various sizes and models, with some inspired by or made by the Japanese NOTHOMME brand. These garments can be worn in two ways—hoodie front or hoodie back. Prices range from 100 to 280 yuan ($13-$38) per shirt/jacket.

The no-face hoodie sun protection shirt is sold in various colors and variations on Chinese e-commerce sites.

Some shops on Taobao joke about the extreme sun-protective fashion, writing: “During the day, you don’t know which one is your wife. At night they’ll return to normal and you’ll see it’s your wife.”

On Xiaohongshu, fashion commenters note how Chinese sun protective clothing has become more extreme over the past few years, with “sunburn protection warriors” (防晒战士) thinking of all kinds of solutions to avoid a tan.

Although there are many jokes surrounding China’s “sun protection warriors,” some people believe they are taking it too far, even comparing them to Muslim women dressed in burqas.

Image shared on Weibo by @TA们叫我董小姐, comparing pretty girls before (left) and nowadays (right), also labeled “sunscreen terrorists.”

Some Xiaohongshu influencers argue that instead of wrapping themselves up like mummies, people should pay more attention to the UV index, suggesting that applying sunscreen and using a parasol or hat usually offers enough protection.

By Manya Koetse, with contributions by Miranda Barnes

Spotted a mistake or want to add something? Please let us know in comments below or email us. First-time commenters, please be patient – we will have to manually approve your comment before it appears.

©2024 Whatsonweibo. All rights reserved. Do not reproduce our content without permission – you can contact us at info@whatsonweibo.com.

Continue Reading

Subscribe

What’s on Weibo is run by Manya Koetse (@manyapan), offering independent analysis of social trends in China for over a decade. Subscribe to gain access to all content and get the Weibo Watch newsletter.

Manya Koetse's Profile Picture

Get in touch

Would you like to become a contributor, or do you have any tips or suggestions? Get in touch here!

Popular Reads